In Loctudy, cycling is the best way to breathe in the Pays Bigouden. You leave the port of Langoz at dawn, the smell of iodine and damp ropes in the air, and head off along the narrow roads that line the sandy beaches. Renting a bike in Loctudy means taking it easy: stop when the light changes, listen to the swell, picnic at the foot of the dunes.

Head south towards Lesconil along coastal paths: seagulls scouting, discreet coves and weathered granite. In season, a ferry crossing takes you to Île-Tudy and its narrow streets; otherwise, the loop via Pont-l'Abbé winds through pretty bocages and leads to the church of Saint-Tudy. For a heritage interlude, the Kerazan manor house is easily accessible via quiet roads. Want to stretch out? The ports of Guilvinec or the Pointe de la Torche are within easy reach on a windy ribbon of asphalt, with the golden light of late afternoon on the nets and the "demoiselles de Loctudy" on the return journey.