Renting cross-country skis in Le Lioran is the easiest way to make the most of the Cantal's wide-open spaces. Between fir forests, luminous clearings and views of the Auvergne volcanoes, the Nordic ski area offers trails accessible to all, from gentle classics to sporty skating. Gentle sections for beginners alternate with more undulating loops for endurance training, all in a soothing, natural atmosphere.

The best times to ski? In the morning, just after grooming, when the snow is firm and the light on the Plomb du Cantal is superb. After a fresh fall, the forest offers pleasant shelter if the wind is blowing on the ridges. Mountain weather can change quickly, so check the snow report and the temperature before you set off.