In Tonnerre, cycling reveals an intimate Burgundy. We start at the foot of the Fosse Dionne, a turquoise spring that murmurs beneath the old stones, then glide between the light-colored houses to the Hôtel-Dieu and its impressive frameworks. In the saddle, the town takes on a whole new dimension: the lapping of the Armançon, the shade of plane trees, the scent of lime blossom at the bend in an alleyway.

We soon reach the towpath of the Canal de Bourgogne. It's flat and even, perfect for a family bike ride. We thread our way along the locks, passing herons and stopping for a picnic by the water. In a few pedal strokes, Tanlay and its château appear in the canal's mirror; further on, Ancy-le-Franc rewards the curious. Looking for gentle hills? The hillsides of Epineuil are lined with small, low-walled roads, with lovely views over vineyards and the valley.