Vescovato, perched high above the Casinca plain, is ideal for exploring by bike. From the saddle, you glide between low stone walls and silver olive trees, with the scent of the maquis rising and the Tyrrhenian blue on the horizon. Up here, the village reveals its cobbled streets and bell tower; further down, quiet little roads lead to orchards, streams and, beyond, the long beaches of the Marana.

An easy loop? Leave the heart of the village, wind down to the plain, pause at a fountain, then head for the coast for a swim. Looking for relief and views? Head for the nearby villages of the Casinca: at every turn, a panorama, a bouquet of myrtle, the screech of cicadas. The climbs are short but invigorating; you manage the tempo, take shelter under a fig tree, and set off again with a smile on your face.