In Lalinde, cycling is the best way to follow the peaceful rhythm of the Dordogne. As you leave the bastide, you'll find the water shimmering between the plane trees, and before you know it, the road has disappeared in favor of a quiet ribbon: the Lalinde canal. Its ancient towpath, flat and shaded, invites you to take a stroll that's within everyone's reach. Pedal gently from the Mauzac lock to the Tuilières dam, stop to watch a barge go by, listen to the birds on the banks, or spread out a picnic in the shade.

Fancy a detour? Couze-et-Saint-Front tells the story of the paper mills along the stream; further afield, the orchards and vineyards of Périgord Pourpre perfume the air in summer. On Thursdays, the market enlivens the square: slip a few strawberries and cheese into your saddlebags, and the day takes on a taste of simple vacations. The more curious can push on to the Cingle de Trémolat: a short climb, a breath of fresh air, and the valley unfolds in panoramic views, meanders and cliffs included.