At the foot of the Albères mountains, renting a bike in Le Boulou means freedom. The town is an open door between sea and mountains, bordered by the River Tech and bathed in Catalan light. A few pedal turns and you're on your way to the Voie Verte du Vallespir, a quiet, safe ribbon that follows the river to Céret, then on to Amélie-les-Bains and Arles-sur-Tech. Plane trees, orchards, wooden bridges, the scent of garrigue after watering the gardens... You ride without a stopwatch, stopping to watch the fishermen, picnicking in the shade. For a refreshing break, head for the lake at Saint-Jean-Pla-de-Corts, perfect with children.

Looking for relief? The small roads of the Albères wind their way through vineyards, olive groves and dry-stone walls. With an electrically-assisted bike, the ramps become gentler and the view opens up to the Canigou and, on a clear day, all the way to the Mediterranean. The more inquisitive can even link up with a section of the Pirinexus cross-border itinerary for an escape to nearby Spain.