The origins of fast fashion
The concept of "fast fashion" (yes, it sounds like a Quebec TV movie 👀 ) was born in the 17ᵉ century, a long way from the fashion catwalks. The French army had an immense quantity of linen, hemp and wool uniforms produced for the colonial wars, in standardized sizes (S, M, L).
A century later, the rise of cotton growing in America, fueled by slavery, the invention of the industrial loom and then Taylorism, made it possible to manufacture faster and cheaper (look for the error 🥹 ).
Flashforward to the 20ᵉ century: new synthetic materials (acrylic, polyester) make us stink to high heaven, but drive down fashion prices, while workshops move to the other side of the world.
Above all, marketing is on the rise. Brands run targeted campaigns: advertising accounts for up to 12% of a product's price!
We buy 5 times more clothes than we did 40 years ago.
21ᵉ siècle. The Internet and social networks now set the tempo for trends, which are increasingly frequent. Zara, H&M etc. draw their inspiration from haute couture to offer them at low prices.
We buy 5 times more clothes than we did 40 years ago, and fast fashion is now a flourishing industry. In 2024, the global fast fashion market reached $142.06 billion, up 15.5% on 2023.
Leading brands in this sector, such as Zara, H&M and Mango, launch several collections a year, sometimes as many as 24 for Zara. This frenetic pace is a response to growing demand: consumers are buying five times more clothes than in 1980.
Jeanne Guien, philosopher and researcher, has studied what she calls our "throwaway culture", which encourages unbridled consumption followed by rapid rejection of products.
Fashion is responsible for 10% of GHG emissions
Warning, scary figures ahead. Don't panic, I'll be quick and then I'll throw in the solutions, because yes, there is hope, my friends!
Take a deep breath, it's tipar for anxiety.
The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions. That's more than aviation and shipping combined!
Textile dyeing is responsible for 20% of global water pollution, due to the chemicals used. The microfibers released during washing pollute the oceans, affecting marine fauna.
On the social front, well, it's not much better. In producing countries, workers - mostly women - are subjected to long hours in unhealthy environments for derisory wages. In Bangladesh, for example, 9 out of 10 workers say their income is insufficient to meet the basic needs of their household.
What about solutions?
Come on, don't get depressed, it's no time to flinch, friends, we've got SOLUTIONS in our bag, let's go, I'm throwing it all away ⤵️
The idea is to adopt a slow fashion approach, buying only what we really need, by going to thrift stores, focusing on the quality and durability of products (check labels carefully), upcycling your own clothes (like jeans that end up as shorts) or having damaged items repaired.
It's also about finding people who wear the same garment 100 times, 3 years later, cool and stylish. Reinventing your wardrobe with a few pieces, mixing them differently.
In France, an anti-fast fashion bill was passed in March 2024 to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry. The law imposes an ecological penalty of 10 euros per fast-fashion product, and bans advertising for these products. Well, it's still a battle in the Senate, but Camille Etienne and Maud Sarda are keeping a close eye on things.
And brands are starting to innovate. In Hauts-de-France, the Mulliez group (Jules, Pimkie..) has created the Fashion Cube Denim Center, to produce jeans that use up to 6 times less water.
Above all: remember that it's not your sapes that make you hot. Your sense of humor is far more devastating than your latest chamois jacket, believe me. And if you want to help me fight my buying urges, come and talk to me. Let's save our money for the stuff that really matters: moments with the people we 💚.
